Every year at the beginning of January, the cosmetics formulation industry gathers in Paris for the Cosmet’Agora trade show, organised on the initiative of the Société Française de Cosmétologie (SFC).
A luminous complexion and a glowy effect
For the 2025 edition, many formulations focused on the luminosity and glow of the complexion, with sublimating textures (Illuminateur Minuit Rose by Stéarinerie Dubois, Multibalm Satin Naturel by Evonik, Huile d’Or by Miyoshi), or by combining instant beautifying effects (radiance, glow) with long-lasting skincare benefits (hydration, anti-ageing), with long-lasting skincare benefits (hydration, anti-ageing), such as Skin Glow Serum by Symrise, Riviera Glow by Lavollée, Eye Primer by Roelmi or Emotion-Proof Foundation by Solabia.
Skincare through sensoriality
The sensory experience remains a must in the world of cosmetics. It is a constant challenge when it comes to replacing key ingredients that no longer meet new market requirements, or pushing formulas to their very limits.
Croda’s Senstories concept highlighted the use of advanced emulsifiers derived from neuroscience research. Lucas Meyer with its Pickmulse emulsifier played on the appeal of Pickering emulsions, while Perles de l’Omega by IES Ingredients and Riviera Glow by Lavollée featured aqueous and oily combinations.
Also on the programme were transformation galenics: Defying Gravity beauty mask by Hallstar, Silk Touch Clean Serum SPF50 by Grant Industries and Wicked Slime by Gattefossé.
And more…
In addition to these two main trends, other products caught our attention: Formulas that help the skin adapt to climatic changes (BASF); a special grade of niacinamide with clinically proven efficacy on post-menopausal skin (dsm-firmenich); enhanced sunscreens that combine efficacy, fewer filters and sensoriality (submicronic encapsulation technology by Hallstar, Silk Touch Clean Serum SPF50 by Grant Industries, Multipurpose Baldbuster Balm by Biolie); and even more environmentally friendly ingredients and processes that limit the use of water, with low-energy cold processes (Multi-Purpose Baldbuster Balm by Biolie, Peel-off Mask by Croda Beauty Actives Sederma, a slimming formula by Agrimer, Icy Sorbet Shower by Sinerga).
All these innovations were in line with the “Glamour, Romance, Adventure, Thrills…” theme chosen by the organisers for the Formulation Awards, but they also met the basic expectations of brands and consumers.
