Scandinavia is renowned for its design and its vision of slow ageing beyond cosmetics, and Vogue even launched Vogue Scandinavia in 2020 [1]. Nordic beauty is characterised by “beauty rituals in tune with nature, such as saunas, a harsh climate and sunlight cycles that are different from the rest of the world,” as Tina Isohanni, VP R&D at Lumene [2], the best-known Nordic skincare brand on the market, explains.
In terms of skincare products, we find gel or SPF primers, multivitamin serums (with claims such as moisturising, clarifying, protective, revitalising, etc.), protective lotions and multi-use balms. So in the end fairly minimalist formulas and cocooning, enveloping textures that protect the skin barrier and its microbiome. Active ingredients derived from local flowers and fruits such as polar berries, wild bilberries and willow bark extracts are promoted as powerful anti-ageing agents derived from plants that are resistant to extreme climatic conditions. In addition to Lumene, other brands to watch include Ole Henriksen, Hikaps, Aiva, Mantle and Bjork and berries.
On the make-up side, the Scandinavian market is different from the rest of Europe. The market’s main offering is eye make-up with kohl pencils, mascaras and liners such as the Sweed brand. The Scandinavian consumer wants lashes that are not necessarily very curved, but volumised and clearly separated. False eyelashes are popular. For the lips, on the other hand, pencil is still favoured over traditional lipstick, in rosy shades in keeping with the pale tones of Scandinavian women’s faces. To complete the look, tinted serums offering a glass skin are popular too. Claims include: silky texture, all-day comfort, hydration, protection against blue light and pollution. This notion of protection, as seen in skincare, is repeated here, with the emphasis not on long-lasting coverage but on a natural second-skin effect and a shield against the climate.
Finally, on the body and hair hygiene side, the market is still relatively undeveloped and has yet to be exploited. The Maria Akerberg brand, for example, is promoting its cream scrub and 2-in-1 hair and body products with essential oils to meet the specific needs of Nordic scalps.
As part of a global trend towards a better understanding of sensitive skin, N-beauty has a real role to play in offering skin-friendly and protective galenic formulations. In addition, to compete with K-beauty, N-beauty could adopt the eco-luxury trend, with formulas with a high ISO naturality index, in eco-responsible packaging (recycled or from upcycling) inspired by their major design brands and their environmental policies in Nordic forests, for example. The specific characteristics of Nordic skin could be exploited through in vivo and in vitro skin biology studies.
There has also been a recent increase in Nordic active ingredients sold as raw materials, such as The Innovation Company’s Nordic beauty range (based on various berries) or the Nordic glacier water used by the Luoki brand.
