The Gattefossé research team continues to explore the cosmetic potential of sea buckthorn leaves (Hippophae rhamnoides), a thorny shrub whose vitamin C-, flavonoid-, and anthocyanin-rich fruits have long been valued in food and natural medicine.
High biomolecular interest
In 2024, the French provider of natural active ingredients presented Eyeglorius [1], an oil-soluble bioactive dedicated to anti-fatigue skin care and make-up formulas and obtained via supercritical CO2 extraction from under-exploited sea buckthorn leaves.
Considering the remarkable phytochemical richness of the shrub, with an abundance of phenolic acids, lipophilic compounds, vitamins, and organic acids, Gattefossé used different extraction technologies to harness the full potential of this raw material.
Just one year after this first launch, sea buckthorn’s high biological potential leads to a second upcycled active ingredient.
Protecting skin against environmental stress
Named Noxifense, this 100% natural active ingredient ensures a holistic approach to skin sensitivity care, by strengthening the skin’s defense mechanisms against environmental stress.
According to Gattefossé, it draws on the emergent theory of “oxi-inflammation,” the harmful interplay between oxidative stress and inflammation. “Its soothing effects are achieved through a finely tuned process targeting specific families of flavonoids, which are of high interest for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.”
Noxifense is currently being previewed at the PCHI show, in Guangzhou, China (February 19 to 21).
Secured supply in Quebec, Canada
To extract these two bioactives from sea buckthorn leaves, Gattefossé worked to secure the supply of the plant from Quebec, Canada. The resource comes from a family-owned orchard dedicated to growing the shrub in organic conditions and transforming its berries into food products.
Every September, the fruit-bearing branches are manually cut, allowing for tree pruning. The leaves are separated from the fruits which will be transformed into juices, sorbets, or jams.
For its part, Gattefossé recovers the leaves to upcycle this material which was under-exploitd before that.
“Besides implementing a waste management system, we are also working with the notion of upcycling. Wastes’ recovery is fully integrated right from the earliest stages of development. This approach has even been reinforced within the last years with several projects underway based on upcycling, as a source of future sustainable, responsible and effective products,” says Laurent Schubnel, Group CSR Leader at Gattefossé.
